{"id":5974,"date":"2022-10-21T16:18:24","date_gmt":"2022-10-21T16:18:24","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/marieclaudearnott.com\/?p=5974"},"modified":"2025-04-02T07:27:00","modified_gmt":"2025-04-02T07:27:00","slug":"lifestyle-and-conundrums-on-a-tahitian-island","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/marieclaudearnott.com\/?p=5974","title":{"rendered":"Tahiti – Conundrum on Raiatea Island"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

I amble through the untidy streets of Papeete wondering what happened to the blissful postcard image of the capital of French Polynesia. The lush canopy of the jungle in the distance and the teeming marine life suggest that paradisical islands such as Tahiti have their dilemmas. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Something About Tahiti<\/em><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

After a seven-hour flight from Los Angeles to Tahiti\u2019s Faa\u2019a Airport and a couple of nights in Papeete, we embark on the\u2014then\u2014m\/s Paul Gaugin for a cruise among one of the five archipelagos in French Polynesia.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Society Islands of the South Pacific\u2014Tahiti, Moorea, and Bora Bora, to name only the famous ones\u2014constitute one of only a few recreational pristine aquatic ecosystems in the world.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Seventy percent of French Polynesians call Tahiti Island home<\/em>, and most live in bustling Papeete. In sharp contrast is the less-traveled Raiatea Island, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. After water activities and lazy times on a\u00a0motu\u00a0<\/em>(islet), next is an inland tour of Uturoa, Raiatea’s capital. A ride in a 4-WD vehicle and a boat trip were the occasions to learn about island life.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pondering Raiatea’s Past and Present<\/em><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

In Opoa, on the eastern side of the island, our dashing guide\u2014who embodies Tahitian romanticism\u2014introduces us to the ancient history at the ruins of a temple. \u201cRaiatea is in the middle of a triangle,\u201d he says as he draws one in the sand. \u201cThe three points are Easter Island, Hawaii<\/a>, and New Zealand; Raiatea is in the middle.\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Raiatea was called the Sacred Island<\/em> and Taputapuatea Marea (temple) The Eye of the Eagle.<\/em> Such names might have had a purpose: to discourage three potential invaders. Now an archeological site, the temple was Polynesia’s cultural, political, and religious center. Dedicated to the god of war, it was another deterrent until James Cook’s arrival and colonization.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Common sense should indicate that it’s not the place for a picnic. It’s a sacred site for Eastern Polynesians who gathered for celebrations such as children’s rites of passage: tattoos and circumcision for boys and a tattoo on each buttock as a symbol of fertility for girls. I cringe at the sacrifices of animals and war prisoners that took place here. Besides, if none were available, offerers hunted forest dwellers instead. It beats any doubt that change can be a good thing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Living on Raiatea Island<\/em><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

On the way to our 4-WD vehicle, our guide darts to a bush only to brandish a land crab that he thrusts at us. He likely did this umpteenth times but still laughs at our reaction; a familiarity that leads to personal questions about his life as a Tahitian. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

A descendant of Polynesian royalty, Manuia Dean is\u2014surprise!\u2014American by his Californian mother, herself the daughter of an Iroquois by the name of Levahyela, a lineage he is still trying to reconnect with. His grandfather was the mayor who arrested Paul Gauguin, he says, adding that Tahitians remember the painter not so much for his paintings and more about his deviant morality, but it’s another story.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We drive in a thick forest, the type that covers over 40 percent of French Polynesia. Trees and underbrush often give way to family gardens. The government lends these plots at a symbolic cost to locals who don\u2019t own land. Here and there, red ginger flowers brighten the jungle. Empty coconut shells lay not under palm trees, but under vanilla vines\u2014to protect the roots from the sun. Vanilla comes from an orchid bean pod and is one of the main crops in the Society Islands, as are pineapple and coconut.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

On the drive back to the pier, I notice newly built facilities: a vocational center where unskilled adults can learn a trade, a daycare, a temple, and a Mormon church. With 4,000 inhabitants, Uturoa is the second economic center of Polynesia, thanks to imports from New Zealand and redistribution among the islands.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Most islanders work for the French government, others at the commercial, cruising, and yachting ports, or in deep sea fishing and tourism. \u201cWe need more jobs, but there is no budget for development because France sends all the money to Papeete,\u201d Guide Manuia Dean complains. As a parent, I understand why he\u2019d want his university daughter to have opportunities locally instead of settling in Papeete.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Facts of Life from the Faaroa River<\/em><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

It\u2019s time to join Captain Maurice for a boating tour on the Faaroa River, the only navigable one in Polynesia. From the water, the perspective on the forest leads to asking him questions. His way of life focuses more on Raiatea than Tahiti as one of France’s overseas territories.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

He points to a high valley on the mountain, where he lives on 200 hectares and grows food for his four wives and 20 children, he says. He has no official title to the land he received from his late mother. And he complains about UNESCO. His sister sold seven acres to buy a new car and a 60-square-foot so-called house. I take this information with a grain of salt but ponder his statement, \u201cOne could be left with nothing if one trades land for something that won\u2019t last forever.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

On the mountainside, smoke rises from burning empty coconut shells before they fill with water and mosquito larvae. We then pass by a new housing development, where \u201cEuropeans and Chinese owners come once a year with lots of luggage and do nothing but swim, then the house sits empty.” Captain Maurice shakes his head in frustration.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The boat slows down at the mouth of the river as we come upon kayaks with fellow cruisers paddling in the calm waters. We then navigate through the rainforest. Dogs of monochromatic colors\u2014the result of inbreeding\u2014guard houses. As for the pigs and chickens, they know nothing else but free-range life.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Back on the cruise ship, I reconcile the diverging viewpoints of our tour guides. The younger one has a mixed heritage and a more progressive view of the future. The other holds on to his indigenous lifestyle and wisdom. Meanwhile, developing or not\u00a0developing Raiatea<\/a> remains a dream and a dilemma.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Previously published 2014 – Buckettripper.com<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"Our
OUR GUIDE EXPLAINS THE HISTORY OF LIFE ON RAIATEA ISLAND.
(Photo: MCArnott) <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n
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\"\"
THE RUINS OF THE TAPUTAPUATEA TEMPLE ON RAIATEA ISLAND (Photo: MCArnott)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n
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\"\"
COCONUT SHELLS PROTECT THE VANILLA VINES FROM THE SUN IN TAHITI.
(Photo: MCArnott)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n
\n
\"\"
KAYAKING ON THE FAAROA RIVER
(Photo: MCArnott)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n
\n
\"Homes
RAIATEA ISLAND LIFESTYLE ON THE WATER EDGE
(Photo: MCArnott)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n
\n
\"\"
IN THE OPALESCENT WATERS OF TAHITI (Photo: JRArnott)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

I amble through the untidy streets of Papeete wondering what happened to the blissful postcard image of the capital of French Polynesia. The lush canopy of the jungle in the distance and the teeming marine life suggest that paradisical islands such as Tahiti have their dilemmas. Something About Tahiti After a seven-hour flight from LosContinue reading →<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":5990,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[3],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-5974","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-travel","has-thumb"],"yoast_head":"\nTahiti - Conundrum on Raiatea Island - Marie-Claude Arnott<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Raiatea Island's ancient history and boating on the Faaroa River highlight the liifestyle and conundrums on the Tahitian island of Raiatea.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/marieclaudearnott.com\/?p=5974\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Tahiti - 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